Day 2 – Annapurna Circuit – Chyamche to Chame

Woke up and got packed quickly, ate plain rice for breakfast and left by 6:45am. The breakfast choice was just because the rice was just ready and I didn’t want to wait for something bigger to be cooked. I felt pretty stiff, especially in the hips, as I got out of bed. I was half limping as I got ready.

Snacked on a Snickers, since the rice wasn’t enough and Went until 11am or so. I stopped for lunch and it turned out it was the wedding of the brother of the restaurant/guest house owner. There were a large group of Nepali people gathered around in a circle, sitting on mats at a low table. They offered me Chang – a local beer-type beverage made from millet. It wasn’t very good – had something floating in it, some sort of fruit remnants or something – and it was thick and soury tasting. I was worried it was made from unpurified water and that I’d get sick, but drank it anyways. Dal baht for lunch.

Met up with Brian after lunch, who had caught up to me, and we walked together for the rest of the day. The ACAP checkpoint at Kodo was fast. We stopped around 2pm for some milk tea, with as much sugar as would dissolve, in order to get a quick boost. There was a Nepali man there, supposedly known as “speedy”, who we talked to. He had a fancy DSLR, had been a guide in the past, and was now doing herbal medicine work. He seemed very well off compared to other Nepalis. Brian was strong, going quickly, with a much heavier pack than I.

We reached Chame by 4pm. Stayed in an excellent guest house near the end of town with cabin-style rooms. Nice hot shower. No towel, so I used the bed sheet of the second bed. I think this was much better than having to carry a towel the whole way around the circuit. Napped for 1.5 hours.

Brian got sick, probably food poisoning though don’t know what from, so he didn’t have dinner. I met Dima, an Israeli who had worked as an officer in the army but then left and was now doing lots of traveling. I tried some momo, a traditional Nepalese dumpling, for the first time, that he ordered, which was excellent.

Manang was suggested by Speedy to be 12-13 hours from here. I will try to push for it tomorrow, but may not make it. Everyone has strongly recommended that I do not go over the pass the next day, even if I make it to Manang tomorrow, because of the altitude. People talk about the “mandatory” rest day at Manang. I would like to try to make it all the way over the pass from Manang in one day, if possible. If not, I would got from Manang to high camp, and go over the pass the next day.

The bill was 545NPR (100 for room, negotiated from 200, 375 dal baht, 70 tea)

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